Trough Lowest point of a wave
Wave height Difference between Crest and Trough
Wave Length Distance between 2 successive crests
Wave Period The Time Taken for a wave to travel 1 wavelength
Wave velocity is the speed of the movement of the crests
Wave Steepness The ratio between Wave height and Wave length (when the ratio is excatly 1:7 the waves breaks)
Swell Waves/Distant Storms are waves of low height, long wavelength and period, gentle steepness
Sea Waves/Local Winds high height, very steep, short wavelength and period
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